Hardwood flooring is crafted of natural woods, which are uniquely characterized by variations in grain and color. These variations are not flaws, but part of the beauty of real wood floors. Real wood will also experience change in color over a period of time. The degree of change depends on the species and the amount of UV exposure.

We recommend our engineered hardwood flooring specifically for those wishing not to install at below-grade level.

Thickness: 1/2″,9/16

Wear Layer: Premium 2mm Top Layer , Nine UV Coating with Aluminum Oxide Finished.

Construction: 9 Multi-Layer Plywood, Low Formaldehyde and VOC Glue

Widths: Strip Sizes – 3″, 5″, 7″,8" and Wide Plank

Lengths: Normal runs contain random lengths of 1’to 4’ and 2’to 6’

Edges: T&G and end matched with option – square or eased edge

Species: White Oak, Birch, Hard Maple, Hickory and Acaica

Grades: Clear, Natural and Mill Run

Warranty: 25 Year Structural Residential Warranty

Installation: Nail/Staple/Glue/Floating

Application: Above Grade/On Grade

Environment: The Lacey Act guards against illegal logging. CARB is a state of California regulation that restricts the use of Formaldehyde in all wood products.

There are inspections that must be performed before installation including careful examination of the flooring for style, grade, color, finish, dimension and quality, job-­‐site and environmental conditions. The installation of our flooring and these instructions are intended for experienced hardwood installers. All others, including the owner/installers, assume all risks of every kind respecting examination of flooring, job-­‐site and environmental conditions as well as the installation. If you require additional or more detailed information on the installation of hardwood flooring, please contact the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) at 1-­‐800-­‐422-­‐4556 or visit

Recommended Sub-­‐Flooring Installations

Concrete Slabs: Glue-­‐down or float

Acoustic Concrete: Glue-­‐down or float

Plywood: Glue-­‐down, float or staple

(Do not staple over particle board or similar product)

Resilient Tile or Sheet Vinyl: Glue-­‐down, float or staple

Cork: Glue-­‐down or float

Ceramic, Terrazzo, Slate Or Marble: Glue-­‐down or float


Hardwood flooring is a natural product and variations in color, grain, pattern and texture occur normally and are not considered defects and are not warranted.

ADD Floors proudly manufactures all engineered hardwood Floors within tolerances accepted by the industry as standard, which allows for up to 5% defective product (natural or manufacturing related) based on the original hardwood flooring purchase.

Be sure to order at least 5% additional flooring material beyond actual square footage requirements to allow for cutting and grading of material.

If your installation will be on a diagonal, order 10% -­‐ 15% extra material.

Warranty & Care

25 Years Residential Warranty

Structural Warranty: 25 years warranty to the original purchaswer against manufacturing defects such as wrapping,buckling or bonding failure under normal residential use. As with all warranties,terms and conditions apply.Our warranties do not cover failure due to improper installation.Also,as wood is a natural products,Add floor cann't guarantee against natural variations in each plank,nor against color differences between samples and the color of floor once the floor has been installed.Careful pre-inspection of the floorig is the responsibility of the buyer.

Care Instructions

Real wood floors are not inpervious to damage casued by spills,dirt,grit,water or impact.All hardwood floors require regular maintenance to keep them looking their best and lasting to their full potenial.Here are some guidelines to help you maintain the beauty of your hadwood floor:

1.Real wood will expand and contract with change in humidity,leaving samll cracks in between the boards.This affect can be minimized with the use of humidity control in the home,as well as proper acclimation prior to installation.

2.To protect floors from dirt or water,place rugs at entry points to hep trap grit and absorb moisture that may damage the finish.However,note that rugs with rubber bottoms or non-skid pads may leave an imprint on the floor.Natural fiber rugs are a safer choice.

3.Regualary vacuum or sweep the floor with a soft mop to prevent abrasive dirt and dust from accummulating and scratching the finish.Vacumming should only be done with machines that have a hard surface setting to prevent damage from the rollers.

4.Don't Damp Mop: Use only the cleanig products designed specifically for hardwood floors.

5.Never use wax,oil-based detergent or any other household cleaners on the floors. These may dull or damage the finish,leaving a greasy film and making the floor slipper and more difficult to clean.Do not use spray polishes or other clearners that are designed for other types of wood furnishings.

6.Wipe spills immediately.Be especially attentive to the areas around the sink, dishwasher,stove tops and dining tables,which are more prone to harmful spills.

7.Add felt pads to all furniture and chair legs to prevent damage to the floor. Replace the felt pads when dirty or worn.Fo extremely havey objects,use wide, non-stainnig rubber cups.

8.Damaged or worn high heel shoese may expose a metal tip,which is certain to damage the surface finish.Because of this,and the press exerted by heels,extra caution should be taken when wearing heels to prevent scratches,dents or other damage to your floors.

9.Protect your floor against direct sunlight or any intense source of artificial lighting.Over time,intense natrual and artificial light will discolor hardwood floors.


Installation Instructions for Engineered Wood Flooring

Important notice

Engineered wood floors are suitable for all rooms other than those that are subject to excessive moisture and high levels of humidity. All wood is hydroscopic (it will react to the moisture in the environment) and as a result will expand or contract accordingly. All sources of moisture must be rectified prior to the installation of the ¬floor, and moisture levels in rooms fitted with wood flooring should be maintained at a stable level, in line with normal living conditions. Any construction dampness must be completely dry. It is important that you check each plank for any manufacturing defects. Any faults must be reported back to the store of purchase for an immediate refund or replacement prior to the flooring being installed. The boards in this pack are of random lengths and should be laid randomly across the floor to create the best effect. It is advisable to open a few cartons at a time to mix boards from each pack as they are installed.

I. Preparations

- Calculate the total square meters or square footage of the room(s) and add 10% for cutting and waste. - The flooring should be placed in the room where it is to be installed to acclimatize for 48 hours. It should be carefully stacked, in its packaging, to allow air to circulate. The boards should be stored and laid in a relative humidity between 45%-65% and at a room temperature of between 18°C and 21°C (65 degrees to 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Engineered wood flooring is a natural product which will mature with age. The shade of your ¬floor will change through exposure to sunlight. - All substrates must be structurally sound, and dry. The surface should be free of all contaminants and loose material. All potential sources of moisture e.g. walls, drains, damp proof courses, plumbing, fridges, washing machines etc. MUST be thoroughly checked and rectified if found to be an issue. - The boards should be installed lengthways towards the main incoming light source and, where possible, down the length of the room.

If installing onto a concrete or screed base

- In good drying conditions allow one day per 1mm of new screed/concrete to ensure it is dry. Further time may be necessary depending on site conditions. - Existing screeds/concrete must be checked for moisture. This can easily be carried out using a moisture meter, or alternatively sheets of polythene approximately the size of 1 meter x 1meter square can be taped on to the screed and a heavy weight placed on top for 24 hours. Presence of moisture in the screed will be confirmed if the screed is discolored, or if moisture is apparent on the underside of the polythene. If moisture is present, i.e. over 12%, wood floors must not be fitted until the problem has been rectified. Please seek a professional installer’s advice for options to resolve.

If installing onto a wood subfloor Engineered wood flooring can be fixed directly onto prepared floorboards. If the existing floorboards are sufficient, the new boards can be laid directly on to them at 90°. If the existing floor is not suitable, it must made suitable and level by overlaying with Exterior Grade plywood. Loose boards must be secured or the new floor may squeak. Please note: If nails/staples/screws are being used, care must be taken not to damage pipes or electrical cables beneath. If the new boards are to be laid in the same direction as the old, plywood sheets (minimum depth 6mm) should be nailed, stapled or screwed to cover the existing floor, allowing a 15mm (5/8”) perimeter gap for expansion. Subfloors with radiant heat

IMPORTANT: Due to the speed of sudden temperature changes, which has potential to negatively affect flooring construction, it is not recommended to install with electrical radiant heating system. This will not be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. Below instructions is for radiant heating system using water.

Ensure the radiant heat surface temperature never exceeds 27 degrees Celsius (81 degrees Fahrenheit). Before installing over newly constructed radiant heat systems, operate the system at maximum capacity to force any residual moisture from the cementitious topping of the radiant heat system. Then set the thermostat to a comfortable room temperature for the installation. It is recommended that the radiant heat be applied in a gradual manner after installing the flooring. Refer to the radiant heat system’s manufacturer recommendations for additional guidance.

II. Installation Methods

There are a number of methods for installing wood floors, floating, gluing or stapling. Apart from where specified in the following sections, most existing floor finishes e.g. lino, carpet etc., should be removed prior to installation of your new wood floor. (note – do not try to remove old vinyl as it may contain asbestos. If in doubt, contact a professional flooring contractor for guidance).

NOTE: If your room wider than 6 meters (19.7ft), we recommend to split installation in two for expansion gap. The expansion gap can be hidden with a T-molding.

1. Floating installations

Before floating installation of the engineered flooring begins, install a foam underlay. Run the foam underlay in the same direction as the flooring planks. The underlay should be butted side-by-side with no overlap. Tape seams together. Your floor is made to be installed floating with glue: Leave an open expansion gap of min 6/16" (10mm) around the whole perimeter (use the distance wedges), i.e. also at pipes, stairs, columns, doorframes and thresholds. In large rooms, calculate 1/16" (1,5mm) / m floor around. Install maximum 32ft 11/16" (10m) length /width; over this: allow for an expansion gap, to cover with a profile of wood or metal. The floor must be able to move freely - do not connect or install tight to any construction part. Rooms with off square areas like for example L-, F-, T-, and U- shapes, separate the areas with an expansion joint, and especially in door openings. At any question contact your distributor for further information, installation at doors, glue down, etc Claims regarding visible defective floor panels must be made prior to installation. Each board should be inspected to ensure that the quality is acceptable. No claims relating to surface defects can be accepted after installation.

Installation method of floor panels

1. First plank, first row. Place a distance ca 3/8" (10mm) width to the left and position the plank against the wall. Later, after 3 rows, you can easily re-position the flooring on the front wall with 3/8" (10mm) expansion gap. 
2. Second plank, first row. Place this plank tight to the short end of the first one. 3. At the end of the first row, leave an expansion gap of 3/8" (10mm), to the wall and measure the length of the last plank to fit. 
4. Cut with a jig saw – hardwood turned down or with a hand saw with the hardwood visible. 
5. Second row. First plank min length 1ft 7 11/16" (500mm). Leave an expansion gap of 3/8" (10mm) against the wall. Generally, minimum distance between short ends of planks in parallel rows shall not be less than 6" (150mm). Adjust distance between the front wall and the flooring by leaving an expansion gap of 3/8" (10mm). 
6. Last row (and perhaps also first row).Minimum width 2" (50mm). Remember you need the expansion gap of 3/8" (10mm).

Disassembling A (Angling up)

Separate the whole row by carefully lifting up and releasing the whole row. Fold up and release the whole long side. Disassemble the panels by angling the short sides up vertically. Disassembling B (Sliding sideways) Separate the whole row by carefully lifting up and releasing the whole row. Fold up and release the whole long side. Disassemble the panels by sliding up horizontally. 
No polymer tongue on the short side, first and/or last row. Joining at short ends length cut panels, glue the joint with white PVAc D3 glue. (or premium wood flooring glue). Cut off the locking element witha chisel, put PVAc D3 white glue (or premium wood flooring glue) on the adjusted strip and push the planks horizontally together. If necessary, place some distances between the last panel and the wall to keep the planks together during the curing time of the glue.